chinchilla care…?
what do chinchillas NEED to survive? where are some good breeder near fremont/newark,CA??
plz list the supplys chinchillas need!
BREEDER: Afraid I don’t know any breeders in CA, as I live in OR. Check the first link below, and pose that question there. You’ll get a real response within a few hours.
GENERAL INFORMATION: They live quite awhile when taken care of!! So if you want a chinchilla make sure you are willing to make the same time commitment you would to a dog or cat. Also make sure that you have a vet fund somewhere on the side, as they are prone to certain health problems.
Tooth problems are the biggest issues they have. You can read more about them in the link I provided below. They are also prone to diabetes so you need to make sure not to give them sugary treats ((raisins and other dried fruits are NOT good!!)).
Also, make sure their staple pellet is a good one and not one filled with treats. Again, check the source below for some information on lots of differant pellets. Their pellet should be opposite of their hay, for a balanced diet. So, if they have a pellet that is mostly alfalfa hay they should have timothy hay loose or in a cube. But they also like different sorts of hays as "treats".
Healthy treats for chinchilla’s are: rosehips, apple wood, different sorts of hay, etc… Check the link below, again!!
They require a cage that is taller than it is wide, with lots of shelves! Ramps/bridges are an option as they can jump pretty high. If you choose not to put ramps/bridges inbetween the shelves than you should have "safety hammocks" so that if they fall, they don’t fall too far!
Rodent’s teeth grow upwards of 16 inches a year!! So it is very important that they have things to chew on at all times, this is where "treats" like apple wood come into play. Also, any sort of wooden toys are great for this! No plastic!! Ingested this could hurt the poor guys.
They temperature of the room they are in should NEVER
get above 80 f. In fact, never let it over 75 f! At 80 most chinchilla’s start to get overheated and between 80 and 85 most of them get heat stroke! Also, the humidity plus the temperature should not reach over 150. If it does, cool down the room somehow! AC or fans work well. As do cooling stones, etc….
They do not get wet! A wet chinchilla will get fungus growing in their fur because it is so dense that it doesn’t dry out all the way fast enough. Instead, they should get "dust baths". You put a little bit of the "dust" in a bowl and watch as they roll around in it. It keeps them clean and they LOVE it! My chins run to the cage door when they see me getting the dust bath ready for them.
They should be allowed outside of the cage for play time for at least 30 minutes every night. If the area they play in is carpeted most people only let them out for 1/2 of an hour because some chins tend to over exert themselves and get overheated. If you let them loose in a tiled/wood floored area like a bathroom then they can be out for longer because the surface will keep them cooler. A wheel should be provided in their cage for ample exercise benefits
Check the FAQ below for more information. If you do get one, I strongly suggest joining the forum below. They give great information and no answer is too silly for them to answer.
WHAT THEY NEED!!!!:
-Fresh water
-A good staple pellet
-Fresh hay or hay cubes
-A large cage, taller than it is wide.
-Wooden things to chew on/play with. NO PLASTIC!
-Quality dust bath ((Blue Cloud is the best, they sell Kaytee at pet stores but it tends to dry out their skin))
-A large glass bowl, etc… for taking dust baths
-A food bowl
-Water bottle
-A Vet ((know them before you need them!))
-A wheel
Heather S Says:
http://www.smallanimalchannel.com/chinchillas/default.aspx
great site.
References :
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 6:57 am
Pixies Says:
BREEDER: Afraid I don’t know any breeders in CA, as I live in OR. Check the first link below, and pose that question there. You’ll get a real response within a few hours.
GENERAL INFORMATION: They live quite awhile when taken care of!! So if you want a chinchilla make sure you are willing to make the same time commitment you would to a dog or cat. Also make sure that you have a vet fund somewhere on the side, as they are prone to certain health problems.
Tooth problems are the biggest issues they have. You can read more about them in the link I provided below. They are also prone to diabetes so you need to make sure not to give them sugary treats ((raisins and other dried fruits are NOT good!!)).
Also, make sure their staple pellet is a good one and not one filled with treats. Again, check the source below for some information on lots of differant pellets. Their pellet should be opposite of their hay, for a balanced diet. So, if they have a pellet that is mostly alfalfa hay they should have timothy hay loose or in a cube. But they also like different sorts of hays as "treats".
Healthy treats for chinchilla’s are: rosehips, apple wood, different sorts of hay, etc… Check the link below, again!!
They require a cage that is taller than it is wide, with lots of shelves! Ramps/bridges are an option as they can jump pretty high. If you choose not to put ramps/bridges inbetween the shelves than you should have "safety hammocks" so that if they fall, they don’t fall too far!
Rodent’s teeth grow upwards of 16 inches a year!! So it is very important that they have things to chew on at all times, this is where "treats" like apple wood come into play. Also, any sort of wooden toys are great for this! No plastic!! Ingested this could hurt the poor guys.
They temperature of the room they are in should NEVER
get above 80 f. In fact, never let it over 75 f! At 80 most chinchilla’s start to get overheated and between 80 and 85 most of them get heat stroke! Also, the humidity plus the temperature should not reach over 150. If it does, cool down the room somehow! AC or fans work well. As do cooling stones, etc….
They do not get wet! A wet chinchilla will get fungus growing in their fur because it is so dense that it doesn’t dry out all the way fast enough. Instead, they should get "dust baths". You put a little bit of the "dust" in a bowl and watch as they roll around in it. It keeps them clean and they LOVE it! My chins run to the cage door when they see me getting the dust bath ready for them.
They should be allowed outside of the cage for play time for at least 30 minutes every night. If the area they play in is carpeted most people only let them out for 1/2 of an hour because some chins tend to over exert themselves and get overheated. If you let them loose in a tiled/wood floored area like a bathroom then they can be out for longer because the surface will keep them cooler. A wheel should be provided in their cage for ample exercise benefits
Check the FAQ below for more information. If you do get one, I strongly suggest joining the forum below. They give great information and no answer is too silly for them to answer.
WHAT THEY NEED!!!!:
-Fresh water
-A good staple pellet
-Fresh hay or hay cubes
-A large cage, taller than it is wide.
-Wooden things to chew on/play with. NO PLASTIC!
-Quality dust bath ((Blue Cloud is the best, they sell Kaytee at pet stores but it tends to dry out their skin))
-A large glass bowl, etc… for taking dust baths
-A food bowl
-Water bottle
-A Vet ((know them before you need them!))
-A wheel
References :
Forum:
http://www.chins-n-quills.com/forums/index.php
FAQ ((includes pellet names)):
http://www.chins-n-quills.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41301
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 7:18 am